13 Ekim 2012 Cumartesi

Old Pogue Joins Kentucky Distillers' Association.

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Old Pogue Distillery announced this week that it has joined the historic ranksof the Kentucky Distillers’ Association (KDA), the Commonwealth’s foremost voice on spirits issues formore than 130 years.

“Old Pogue has a Bourbon history dating back as far as the association itself, and we proudlywelcome them to the KDA,” said Jeff Conder, Chairman of the KDA Board of Directors and VicePresident, Global Supply Chain, for Beam, Inc.“We couldn’t be more pleased with the work that our craft partners have done in the past year tohelp move the KDA forward and promote and protect our signature Bourbon and distilled spiritsindustry. We truly are stronger when we all work together.”

The H. E. Pogue Distillery was founded in 1876 in Mason County, which played a vital role in Kentucky Bourbon's early history. The town of Maysville, originally known as Limestone Landing, was the first important Ohio River port in Kentucky, back when the territory was part of Bourbon County, Virginia.While only the foundation of the original H. E. Pogue Distillery still stands, the new small batchcraft distillery is on the same plot of land and is part of the historic Ryan-Pogue familyhome on West Second Street.Production there began in March, using Pogue family recipes dating to the late 1800s. Productsinclude Old Pogue Master’s Select Bourbon and Limestone Landing Rye Whisky.

“As a Kentucky craft distiller, and as a family, we could not be more honored than to be invited tojoin an organization as esteemed as the KDA,” noted Peter H. Pogue, President of The Old PogueDistillery.“Our forefathers were instrumental in the early days of the KDA, and to be affiliated with the KDAonce again is very humbling for us.”Pogue becomes KDA’s 13th member and the seventh Kentucky craft distillery to join.

The KDA is a non-profit trade association founded in 1880.

Beam's New Visitor Experience Is Officially Open

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Kentucky Governor Steve Beshear and Beam executives officially opened the doors yesterday to a new visitor experience at Beam's flagship distillery in Clermont.

They also officially inaugurated Beam's new Global Innovation Center and celebrated Beam's one-year anniversary as a standalone, publically-traded company, Beam Inc. (NYSE: BEAM).

Beam predicts that the new visitor experience will more than double tourism visits to Clermont, to 200,000 annually.

This will be the first time public tours have gone inside a Beam distillery.

Yesterday's openings represent a $30 million multi-year investment by Beam.

According to family lore, patriarch Jacob Beam sold his first barrel of whiskey in Kentucky in 1795.

“Today is another great day for the Commonwealth of Kentucky,” said Governor Beshear. “The Bourbon industry plays a vital role in Kentucky’s economic success and the opening of the fantastic Jim Beam American Stillhouse means more tourism for our state and ultimately more jobs for Kentucky families.”

The new 57,000 square foot Global Innovation Center on the distillery grounds features state-of-the-art technical, R&D and design labs that will fuel the company’s aggressive new-product development initiatives for all markets around the world. “We aim to deliver 25 percent of our company’s annual sales growth from new products, and our new Global Innovation Center will help ensure our innovation capabilities remain second to none,” said Beam President and CEO Matt Shattock.

The Jim Beam American Stillhouseshowcases the Jim Beam Bourbon-making process from start to finish. Guided tours start with Beam’s natural limestone water well and take guests through the mashing, distilling, barreling, storing and bottling lines. A total whiskey immersion engages the senses, while also offering guests a historical look at The First Family of Bourbon.

The Jim Beam American Stillhouse is located approximately 30 minutes southeast of Louisville and is open weekdays and Saturdays 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and Sundays from 12:00 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. (Closed on Sundays in January and February, as well as New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day). For more information or to order your reservation tickets online, visit the Jim Beam American Stillhouse online at www.AmericanStillhouse.com or under the “distillery” section of www.JimBeam.com.

Jack Daniel's And Jim Beam Pile Onto The White Whiskey Bandwagon.

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Clearly, there is some high level market research out there that says so-called 'white whiskey' is a product consumers want, because the world's two biggest American whiskey brands are rolling out their versions over the next few months.

Micro-producers created the white whiskey category a few years back, ostensibly as a way to generate revenue while their whiskey aged. Mixologists praised its bold, spicy character as a great cocktail ingredient and its clear appearance appealed to people for whom vodka is the quintessential cocktail base.

An informal survey of whiskey enthusiasts showed that while most find white whiskey interesting, few actually drink it regularly. No one reported buying a second bottle.

Although white whiskey must, by law, have some minimal contact with wood to be called 'whiskey,' it can be as little as five minutes, too brief for the wood to have any effect on flavor or appearance. Unlike Europe and most of the rest of the world, the U.S. has no minimum aging requirement for whiskey. It just says the spirit must be 'stored in oak barrels' in order to be called whiskey. It doesn't say for how long.

The rap on white whiskey has been that it's simply white dog, whiskey distillate straight from the still, too hot and harsh to be truly enjoyable, especially neat or on-the-rocks, the way most whiskey enthusiasts drink. This has continued to be true despite the sometimes hyperbolic claims of the micro-producers for whom it is bread and butter.

Although both products are bottled at a mild 40% ABV, Jim Beam and Jack Daniel's are approaching the subject differently, from the micros and from each other.

Beam's product is called Jacob's Ghost, after 18th century family patriarch Jacob Beam. It is standard Jim Beam bourbon, aged one year, then heavily filtered to remove the color and harsher flavors. The result is a product that is still pretty raw, but much milder than white dog, with significant amounts of corn body and barrel sweetness. It is scheduled to be released in January.

Beam calls its product white whiskey, Daniel's does not. Because it's not whiskey.

As the press materials say repeatedly, new Jack Daniel's Unaged Tennessee Rye is the first new grain bill used at Jack Daniel's since Prohibition. "While many rye products only contain the required 51 percent rye in their grain bill, Jack Daniel’s Unaged Rye consists of a grain combination of 70 percent rye, 18 percent corn and 12 percent malted barley."

Notice the use of the term 'rye products,' not 'rye whiskeys.'

Take a close look at the label. Jack Daniel's Tennessee Rye is not whiskey, it's neutral spirit.

In other words, it's Jack Daniel's vodka.

Daniel's doesn't talk about any of this in the press materials.

Jack Daniel's Tennessee Rye actually tastes quite a bit like Jacob's Ghost, and very unlike the typical micro-producer white whiskey or any vodka I've ever had.

From the taste, it's hard to believe it meets the legal definition of neutral spirit. It tastes like a mild whiskey white dog.

Jack Daniel's Master Distiller Jeff Arnett, in his tasting notes, talks the way you would about an unaged rye whiskey. He describes it as more fruity than spicy, and he's right about that. They also as much as say it was already in barrels when they decided it was so good they should sell it white. That sounds like a fairy tale anyway, but is incompatible with the neutral spirit classification.

You see, the terms 'neutral spirit' and 'whiskey' are mutually exclusive. A product can't be both. You also can't put neutral spirit into a barrel and someday harvest whiskey, although they imply that's what they're doing with the phrase, "it's just a taste of what's to come."

I imagine people will be talking about it as "Jack Daniel's moonshine," but it's actually Jack Daniel's vodka, and that's just bizarre.

Both products are far more drinkable than a typical micro-producer 'white whiskey.' The Daniel's rye is spicier and drier than the Beam product. Still, you have to have at least some affection for white dog to drink either, because that's still how they taste.

Everything Arnett says about the product is consistent with how it tastes, but not with how it's labeled. That's the mystery.

Jack Daniel's And TTB Redefine Neutral Spirits, Or Do They?

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When is a neutral spirit not a neutral spirit? When it's a Jack Daniel's product, apparently.

The young saga of new Jack Daniel's Unaged Rye has already gotten curiouser and curiouser. The story begins with Friday's post about two new 'white whiskey' products from Jim Beam and Jack Daniel's.

Looking at the photograph of the Jack Daniel's package provided by the distillery, inquiring minds wanted to know how a product distilled at 140° proof (70% ABV), as they described the product, could be labeled 'neutral spirit,' considering that the regulations of the U.S. Treasury Department's Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) clearly state that neutral spirit is a distilled spirit distilled at more than 190° proof (95% ABV). (The exact wording is reproduced below.)

Well, that apparently is not what 'neutral spirit' means if you're Jack Daniel's. Below is the explanation from Jack Daniel's PR agency. I'm flabbergasted, but there it is.

Mr. Cowdery,

Good afternoon. Thank you for your inquiry. Per the portion of the Code of Federal Regulations describing neutral spirits (vodka) and whiskey copied and provided below, vodka has to be distilled at or above 190 proof and “without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color. Whiskeys must be distilled at less than 190 proof and “possess the taste, aroma, and characteristics generally attributed to whisky, stored in oak containers (except that corn whisky need not be stored), and bottled at not less than 80 proof.”

The net of this is that our unaged rye did not satisfy the “Class 2; Whiskey” requirement of being stored in an oak container, therefore the TTB ruled that it should be labeled as a “neutral spirit” even though it was distilled at 140 proof and obviously violates the stated vodka requirement of being “without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color.” By this ruling, it is assumed that the TTB considers all whiskies (except corn whisky) to be neutral spirits until they enter the barrel for maturation. Jack Daniel’s packaging and legal departments argued that the Tennessee Unaged Rye should be labeled as an “unaged whiskey” which we felt more accurately described the nature of the product to the consumer, but the TTB ruled against this proposal and would only approve the label under the category “neutral spirit”.

Jack Daniel’s understands this category classification can certainly be a point of confusion. The Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Unaged Rye is a fermented mash of 70 percent rye, 18 percent corn, and 12 percent malted barley that was distilled at 140 proof and charcoal mellowed, but it was never entered into an oak barrel.

Again, thank you for your inquiry. Please let me know if you have more concerns or questions.

Title 27: Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms PART 5—LABELING AND ADVERTISING OF DISTILLED SPIRITS

Subpart C—Standards of Identity for Distilled Spirits § 5.22 The standards of identity. Standards of identity for the several classes and types of distilled spirits set forth in this section shall be as follows (see also §5.35, class and type):

 (a) Class 1; neutral spirits or alcohol. “Neutral spirits” or “alcohol” are distilled spirits produced from any material at or above 190° proof, and, if bottled, bottled at not less than 80° proof.

(1) “Vodka” is neutral spirits so distilled, or so treated after distillation with charcoal or other materials, as to be without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color.

(2) “Grain spirits” are neutral spirits distilled from a fermented mash of grain and stored in oak containers.

(b) Class 2; whisky. “Whisky” is an alcoholic distillate from a fermented mash of grain produced at less than 190° proof in such manner that the distillate possesses the taste, aroma, and characteristics generally attributed to whisky, stored in oak containers (except that corn whisky need not be so stored), and bottled at not less than 80° proof, and also includes mixtures of such distillates for which no specific standards of identity are prescribed.

Thanks,
Rob Hoskins
Jack Daniel’s Media Relations

As I replied to Mr. Hoskins, the definition of ‘neutral spirits,’ as a class designation, is distinguishable from the definition of vodka, which appears below it as a type designation within the class of neutral spirits, much as ‘rye whiskey’ appears as a type designation within the class of whiskey. The definition of ‘neutral spirits’ as a class, while it does not include the "without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color" requirement for vodka, does clearly state that the spirit must be distilled above 190° of proof. The ruling as described would seem to undermine the definition of neutral spirits for more purposes than just the labeling of this one Jack Daniel’s product.

In case you haven't detected this yet, I consider this outrageous. 

I have made my own inquiries to TTB. Stay tuned.

KDA Announces Craft Distillery Tour.

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This is a great time of year to visit Kentucky, especially if you're coming from the north. Generally, the onset of cold weather there is about two weeks behind what it is here in Chicago.

Plus, now there is something new to see and do.

Yesterday, Kentucky Gov. Steve Beshear announced the launch of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail Craft Tour, a new tourism adventure that links the state’s micro-distilleries. The Governor made the announcement with Lexington Mayor Jim Gray at Barrel HouseDistillery, part of the city’s new Distillery District.

The new tour, featuring seven artisan distilleries stretching from Marshall to Masoncounties, is designed to complement the Kentucky Bourbon Trail experience that hasbecome one of the Commonwealth’s most popular attractions.

Eric Gregory, President of the Kentucky Distillers’ Association (KDA), which will coordinate the tour, said Kentucky is the first and only state with an expedition specifically designed to showcase its flourishing craft distilling industry. Gregory said the camaraderie between historic and boutique distilleries played a key role in forging this new attraction. “For 200 years, one of the distinctive hallmarks of ourindustry has been the fellowship between distilleries, no matter how big or small. We’re proud that tradition continues today and will ensure that Kentucky remains theone, true authentic home for Bourbon."

The seven founding craft distilleries are:Barrel House Distillery in Lexington, Corsair Artisan Distillery in Bowling Green,Limestone Branch Distillery in Lebanon, MB Roland Distillery in Pembroke, Old Pogue Distillery in Maysville, Silver Trail Distillery in Hardin, and the Willett Distillery in Bardstown.

The tour will officially launch on Thursday, Oct. 18, with the “Bung Heard ‘Round theWorld” event. Each distillery will have a press conference with local dignitaries andpound a bung into a barrel at 10 a.m. EST to signify that the tour is open for business.

12 Ekim 2012 Cuma

It's Whiskey Tasting Season

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The whiskey tasting season is rapidly approaching with LA's two big whiskey tasting events coming this fall.

WhiskyLive - October 17. Whisky Magazine's WhiskyLive tasting will be on Wednesday, October 17 at the Hyatt Regency Century Plaza. Regular tickets are $109 and gain you entrance from 6:30pm to 10:00pm. VIP tickets cost $139 and get you in an hour earlier at 5:30.

SMWS Extravaganza - November 9. The Scotch Malt Whisky Society's Extravaganza will be Friday, November 9 at Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel from 7:00pm to 9:00pm. Tickets are $135 for members of the SMWS and $150 for non-members. Readers of Sku's Recent Eats can get the lower, membership price by entering promotional code SRE2012. (This code will actually work for any of this fall's Extravaganzas, which will be in Boston, Chicago, DC, Philly, San Francisco, Seattle or Fort Lauderdale, see the SMWS calendar.) [Note: Sku is admitted to this event free of charge]

Parker's Heritage Collection 2012: Blend of Mashbills

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One of the annual special releases I most look forward to each fall is the Heaven Hill's Parker's Heritage Collection. Like the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, the Parker's is always good (and sometimes amazing), but unlike the BTAC, Parker's is always something different and is usually easy to find on the shelf.

This year, Heaven Hill brings us a "Master Distillers' Blend of Mashbills." It's a vatting of rye recipe bourbon and wheated bourbon distilled in 2001, and bottled at cask strength.

There were three different barrel minglings (aka "dumps") that will be released, each with a slightly different abv. The one I review here is the first dump.

Parker's Heritage Collection 2012 "Master Distiller's Blend of Mashbills", 11 yo, 65.8% abv ($80)

The nose starts with lots of spicy rye and winds through yeasty bread notes, ending with a good dose of oak, a pleasant journey. The palate starts with the acidic kick I'd usually identify with a wheated bourbon though even more acidic, like a sour lemon candy, then some chocolate notes (you want specifics? I'd say high cacao Costa Rican chocolate). Water brings clarity, that initial sour kick is more lemony and is followed by caramel and wood (more an oak tree than cut wood), though the sourness lingers. The finish is a muted oak, the sour notes reduced to a tangy tongue.

It's interesting how the wheat and rye work together here. It smells like a rye bourbon put tastes more like a wheater. As I said, Parker's bourbons range from good to amazing. I'd put this further toward the good range. It's a solid bourbon with a great nose and some interesting flavors, but I found the sourness a bit overpowering, and I didn't think the whole thing came together as well as some of the past releases.

Indie Bourbon, Scotch Style: Alchemist Heaven Hill

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Independent bottling of whiskey is a major phenomenon in both the United States and Scotland, but the industries are very different in each country. In the US, independent bottlers seldom disclose the distillery where there whiskey was made and often imply that they made it themselves at some rustic site. In Scotland, independent bottlers commonly disclose the distillery right on the label. Every onece in a while, a Scottish distiller gets hold of some American whiskey and we get to see what life would be like in the full-disclosure world of Scottish indies.

Alchemist is a Scottish bottler known for its independent bottlings of such well known single malts as Highland Park, Macallan and Springbank. It's one of the smaller indies and occasionally bottles other spirits such as brandy and rum, and on at least one occasion, they bottled a bourbon.

As someone used to the American indie game, it's refreshing to see an independent bourbon bottling with the name of the distillery right on it. Alchemist's Heaven Hill is a 12 year old, distilled in 1999 and bottled in 2011. It weighs in at 46% abv. It goes for $90 which is a pretty hefty price tag for a 12 year old 92 proof bourbon, but then again, it's that rarest of things, an imported bourbon.


Heaven Hill 12 (Alchemist), 46% abv ($90).

The nose on this is pure Heaven Hill, sweet with honey and somewhat floral with a light woodiness at the end. The palate also has a classic taste of burnt caramel and brown sugar mingled with a small amount of wood which gives it just the right amount of character; it ends with a candy-sweet finish.

This is a great, easy to drink, no muss-no fuss bourbon. It's not overly complicated, but it's light and sweet and very enjoyable. If I'd tasted this blind, I might have guessed it came from an old dusty bottle. Maybe more than any other contemporary bourbon, the Alchemist Heaven Hill harkens back to the old dusty days when bourbon was sweet with a touch of wood and oh, so easy to drink. It's surely expensive for what it is, but it's thoroughly enjoyable. Hmm, maybe those Scots do know a thing or two about whiskey.

Dusty Thursday: The Inagural Sazerac 18

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To commemorate the beginning of the fall whiskey season and the impending release of this year's Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, I thought I'd reach back to the first BTAC. The Antique Collection debuted in 2000. Back then it was a three bottle release featuring Eagle Rare 17, William Larue Weller and Sazerac 18. George T. Stagg would join the party in 2002 and his pal Tom Handy would be the last addition in 2006.

I first picked up a bottle of Sazerac 18 back in 2005 and formally reviewed it way back in ought seven. I've been lucky enough to get my hands on some of the original 2000 release of Sazerac 18 year old rye.

The thing about Sazerac 18 is that since 2003, Buffalo Trace has been using the same distillate for all its Sazerac ryes. Apparently, there was enough rye distilled in 1985 for them to transfer it to steel tanks after 18 years, and since 2003, they have been drawing the Sazerac 18 from those same steel tanks. That makes the pre-2003 ryes even more unique since, unlike everything since '03, they were made from different distillate (though it remains to be seen if this year's Saz 18 will be from the '85 run).

Sazerac 18 (circa 2000), 45% abv.

The nose is beautiful with plenty of spice and even some of those sandalwood notes that I've found on old Pennsylvania ryes, followed by some botanical/herbal notes. The palate takes all of those notes and combines them with some sweet, overripe fruit, but that sandalwood notes really dominates toward the end and into the finish.

This is more like an old Pennsylvania rye than any Kentucky rye I've had. It's totally unique and has a different character from the more recent bottlings of the 1985 vintage rye.

After the Whisky Bust

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Dateline: 2018

As everyone knows, the early years of the decade were heady times for whisky collectors. Despite some curmudgeons who were never on board, distillers regularly auctioned whiskies for four, five and even six figures. People crowded into auction houses for the latest 50 or 70 year old whisky in a jewel encrusted bottle. Aged whiskies from Dalmore, Bowmore, Macallan and Glenlivet became the liquid equivalent of Rolls Royce and Bentley.

The high water mark was in 2013 when an anonymous collector paid $1.8 million for a 180 year old Macallan. As everyone now knows, it was later discovered that, through a clerical error, an extra zero had been added to the age and it was actually an 18 year old. When the anonymous purchaser asked for his money back, the auction house responded with a three word tweet: "Caveat emptor sucker!"

Many people credit the Macallan 18 incident with causing the Great Whisky Crash of 2014 when the bottom dropped out of the market. People simply weren't willing to pay that level of money anymore, and an entire industry of collectors and speculators was left high and dry. Many remember the low point of that bust cycle, when bottles of Port Ellen and Brora littered liquor store discount racks and clearance bins, and the Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery began their three-for-the-price-of-one Pappy Van Winkle giveaway. Bonham's Auction House, which was one of the major centers of whisky auctions during the boom, disbanded its spirits division in early 2016 and transferred its spirits staff to the rare Beanie Babies division.

I recently visited one of the major collectors from that time, Jose Bolsa de Dinero, who lived through the boom and bust.

"None of us saw it coming," Dinero says of the crash, "I mean, here I had invested most of my life savings into these whiskies, assuming I would be the first whisky billionaire once I flipped them all, but then it just all went to hell. Now I can't give the stuff away. I mean, I try to tell people, hey, this is a 50 year old Bowmore, and they're like 'dude, it's just booze.' The bottles are quite lovely though, I managed to sell a bunch of the empty ones on ebay. Apparently, they make a perfect vase for Dutch tulips."

As many whisky lovers said at the time, the bright side about having a whisky collection, however worthless, is you can always drink it, but on that point, Dinero demurs, "Sure I drank some of it, but all those Dalmores? Who would want to drink all that stuff?"


11 Ekim 2012 Perşembe

Maddie 9"x12" oil

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Please click here for auction information.Eleven year old Maddie is the granddaughter of a woman who paints with us on Friday.  She wanted to pose for our Friday group and had to wait until she had a day off from school.    She has been practicing for weeks and I must say she was a very good model!   All her practice paid off.   
My blog: http://claudiahammer.blogspot.com
My website: http://claudiahammer.com
My email: iclaudiahammer@insightbb.com
My DPW gallery: http://www.dailypaintworks.com/Artists/chammer-209

Saint-Paul asylum in Saint Remy France 8"x10" oil

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Please click here to view auction information.Saint-Paul Asylum is where Vincent Van Gogh stayed for a year from May 1889-May 1890 as a self-admitted patient.   During much of his stay he was confined to the grounds where he made paintings of the garden, olive trees, views from his window and of course the irises.   I took this reference photo when I visited in 2007.My blog: http://claudiahammer.blogspot.com
My website: http://claudiahammer.com
My email: iclaudiahammer@insightbb.com
My DPW gallery: http://www.dailypaintworks.com/Artists/chammer-209

Grilled Tuscan Chicken - Trattoria dell'Orto: Florence, Italy

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I haven't had much Grilled Tuscan Chicken, but I believe this is the best that chicken can taste. That says a lot coming from a person who has eaten at Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken in Memphis. It also says something that in my 1 week visit to Tuscany, I actually ate this dish twice and wanted to eat it many more times. I was obsessed with this dish.

Perfectly flavored and tender with crisp smokey skin and paired with buttery roasted potatoes...I have been
craving this experience here in the States. You can't find this on a menu in the US. I tried making it once in a pan, but that's not possible either as you need the flavor that's imparted by charcoal briquettes. You have to have a grill to achieve this level of perfection. Or you can just go to Trattoria dell'Orto in Florence, Italy. The ambiance is not great inside. You need to ask to be seated on the patio in the back, which has better scenery. The main server, who happens to be the owner's wife, is not terribly friendly, but it doesn't matter. The food is authentic and the house wine is delicious. 
Trattoria dell'OrtoVia dell'Orto 35A, 50124 Florence, Italy+39.055.224148 | www.trattoriadellorto.com/



I happened to be watching America's Test Kitchen on PBS this past weekend (don't ask why), and they happened to feature a Tuscan Brick Chicken. The recipe is  below. I haven't tried it yet, but it looks really close to what I had in Florence. As soon as I have access to a grill, I'm going to try to recreate this fantastic dish. 

For the best flavor, use a high-quality chicken, such as Bell & Evans. Use an oven mitt or dish towel to safely grip and maneuver the hot bricks. If you’re using table salt, reduce the amount to 1½ teaspoons in step 2. You will need two standard-sized bricks for this recipe. Placing the bricks on the chicken while it cooks ensures that the skin will be evenly browned and well rendered—don’t skip this step. A cast-iron skillet or other heavy pan can be used in place of the bricks.
Ingredients1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil8 medium garlic cloves , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 1/2 tablespoons)1 teaspoon finely grated zest from 1 lemon , plus 2 tablespoons juice  Pinch crushed red pepper flakes4 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves3 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary  Kosher salt (see note)  Ground black pepper1 (3 3/4- to 4 1/4-pound) whole chicken (see note)  Vegetable oil for cooking grate
Instructions1. Combine oil, garlic, lemon zest, and pepper flakes in small saucepan. Bring to simmer, stirring frequently, over medium-low heat, about 3 minutes. Once simmering, add 3 teaspoons thyme and 2 teaspoons rosemary and cook 30 seconds longer. Strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer set over small bowl, pushing on solids to extract oil. Transfer solids to small bowl and cool; set oil and solids aside.
2. Following illustrations below, butterfly chicken, flatten breastbone, and tuck wings behind back. Using hands or handle of wooden spoon, loosen skin over breast and thighs and remove any excess fat. Combine 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper in small bowl. Mix 3 teaspoons salt mixture with cooled garlic solids. Spread salt-garlic mixture evenly under skin over chicken breast and thighs. Sprinkle remaining teaspoon salt mixture on exposed meat of bone side. Place chicken skin-side up on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours.
3. Wrap 2 bricks tightly in aluminum foil. Light large chimney starter filled three-quarters with charcoal (4½ quarts, or about 75 briquettes) and burn until coals are covered with layer of fine gray ash, about 20 minutes. Build modified two-level fire by arranging all coals over half of grill, leaving other half empty. Position cooking grate over coals, place bricks on grate over coals, cover grill, and heat about 5 minutes. Scrape cooking grate clean with grill brush. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in vegetable oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate. Grill is ready when side with coals is medium-hot (you can hold your hand 5 inches above grate for 3 to 4 seconds).
4. Place chicken skin-side down over cooler side of grill with legs facing fire, place hot bricks lengthwise over each breast half, cover grill, and cook until skin is lightly browned and faint grill marks appear, 22 to 25 minutes. Remove bricks from chicken. Using tongs or towel, grip legs and flip chicken (chicken should release freely from grill; use thin metal spatula to loosen if stuck) and transfer to hot side of grill, skin-side up, with breast facing center of grill. Place bricks over breast, cover grill, and cook until chicken is well browned, 12 to 15 minutes.
5. Remove bricks, flip chicken skin-side down over hot coals, and cook until chicken skin is well crisped and instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 165 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes, moving chicken as necessary to prevent flare-ups. Transfer chicken to cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. Whisk lemon juice and remaining thyme and rosemary into reserved oil; season with salt and pepper. Carve chicken and serve, passing sauce separately.
TechniquePrepping Chicken for the Grill1. BUTTERFLY Cut through bones on either side of backbone, then discard backbone. 2. PRESS Flip chicken over, then flatten breastbone and tuck wings behind back. 3. SEPARATE Loosen skin over breast and thighs and remove any excess fat. 4. SALT Spread salt-garlic mixture under skin of breast and thighs. Spread salt mixture on meat of bone side.


Searching for an Apple Approved iPhone 5 Case?

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There isn't one.
This past weekend, I spoke to a customer service representative in search of an iPhone 5 case. I was told there are none for purchase thru Apple because they have not yet fully tested cases or vetted a particular case at this point. In fact, it may be a few more weeks before this process is complete. Apple rigorously tests accessory products for safety and protection, so that it can offer its one year warranty on Apple Store purchases. 
To complicate matters, the iPhone 5 has had numerous complaints on scratching of its aluminum back. As you know, Apple's marketing chief, Phil Schiller reportedly told a user that the iPhone 5's aluminum back naturally makes it more prone to scratches. 
So, what do you do if you want to keep your aluminum back from picking up daily wear and tear? You can either buy an untested product or do what I do - I left the clear plastic sticker that the iPhone 5 comes fitted with on the back of the phone (see below). It has just enough adhesive to stay on during heavy use and taking in and out of my pocket. It won't protect your phone from a fall, but it will certainly keep the aluminum back looking like new. The clear cover is holding on great now, and hopefully it will stay for the next couple weeks until we can get some cases that come Apple approved.  By the way, don't try to take a flash photo with the clear cover on the back. The flash reflects off of the cover and will fade your pictures to white. Pictures without the flash turn out great through, and the camera picks up enough light even at night that the flash is not even necessary. 


Tortillas Burritos - Still Missing You

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In the Spring of 2003, Atlanta's original burrito joint, Tortillas, closed after 19 years. This is another one of those establishments that I greatly miss. In a way, Tortillas was a victim of its own success, having kicked off the city's burrito boom, spawned countless imitators and initiated the influx of national burrito chains. Still, the place to go for the most authentic and elemental burrito experience was always Tortillas on Ponce de Leon. Tortillas was especially known for its red and green sauces in clear plastic squeeze bottles, many speculating that they were infused with crack because of how addictive they were.
Tortillas' burritos were inspired by co-owner Charlie Kerns and his wife who, after moving from San Francisco in 1983, missed the thick bean-filled burritos popular on the West Coast, so they opened Tortillas the next year in a small Ponce de Leon storefront.
Inspired by Tortillas' success, a long list of other local burrito shops opened in Atlanta, including Raging Burrito, Burrito Art, Great Western Burrito and El Myr. El Myr btw is still a legitimate burrito shop. Real damage came when regional chains Willy's Mexicana Grill and Moe's Cantina, which already had about 50 franchise locations in seven Southern states, opened. The final nail in the coffin was when Moe's opened up a couple blocks east of Tortillas. Tortillas simply couldn't compete with the advertising and draw of a big regional chain so nearby.

Before closing, Tortillas offered its loyal customers a list of its most treasured recipes. Luckily, my girl Lindsay Belton kept this document under lock and key for the last 9 years, and we pulled it out this past weekend. I have transcribed the recipes below for you to enjoy at home. 
___________________________________________
Remember: "Friends don't let friends eat at Moe's"
Guacamole
"Breaking" avocados are the ideal for chunky Tortilla style guac. Breaking is a condition where you can squeeze the avocado in your palm with your whole fingers and feel the avocado break loose from the pit. Don't squeeze with your fingertips but your open fingers. Not soft and mushy...that's somebody else's guac. Use Haas (California) avocados. Florida (Fuerte) avocados won't do.

We combine:
Avocados
To the avocados we add a spice mixture that has a ratio of:
   6 light red chile powder
   5 ground cumin
   2 garlic powder
   2 black pepper
   3 salt
Add vinegar to sit your taste (aprox. 1 tbl/avocado)

Mash em up!

Green Sauce - I make this one often
Canned tomatillos
canned jalapeno slices
fresh cilantro
fresh onion

Drain but don't crush the tomatillos. Combine with the sliced jalapenos and the liquid the jalapenos are in. For a can of tomatillos use the same size can of jalapenos. Add onion and cilantro and process in a a food processor till desired texture is achieved. Use lots of cilantro until the color is what you like.




Red Sauce
4 parts canned tomatoes
1 part canned jalapnos and their juice
To this we add a spice mixture with a ratio of:
   5 chili powder
   4 cumin
   3 salt
Combine ingredients and process to texture

Pinto beans or Black beans
Spice ratio:
   7 salt
   5 chili powder
   3 cumin
   2 garlic powder
   2 black pepper

Vegetable oil (approx. 2 tbl/lb. of beans)

Do not pre-soak the beans. Beans that are pre soaked bulk up on water when they should be absorbing al the spices, oil and water that they will when cooked from dry. Sort your dry beans removing stones etc. Combine dry ingredients, beans, and vegetable oil in a pot. Cover the beans with water and bring to a simmering boil. Keep beans just covered with water and cook for 3 to 4 hours until done. Black beans take significantly less time. 


Enjoy!


10 Ekim 2012 Çarşamba

The Best Bourbon Ever

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When it comes to bourbon, I always follow the philosophy that everyone has an opinion on what is best and that all those opinions are correct opinions.  After all, taste is entirely subjective. 

Well, tomorrow I will be drinking the best bourbon ever.

I want to thank Rick over at South Florida Daily Blog for posting the video I'm sharing above.  In February, my father was diagnosed with follicular lymphoma.  Just like the guy in the video, this meant that cancer was in his lymph nodes.  Just like the guy in the video, he lost a thick head of hair.  Most importantly, on the 20th of May, just like the guy in the video, he found out that the months of chemotherapy worked and the cancer was gonzo.  Tomorrow night when I get home to Boston it will be the first time I've seen him since chemo ended and we will share a bourbon together, his first since February. 

And that, folks, will be the best bourbon ever. 

I can hardly wait to taste it.


Local Love: Bazaar @ SLS Hotel, Miami Beach

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photo: Food for Thought
It was a Sunday afternoon and I was enjoying brunch at my usual Sunday haunt, Michael's Genuine Food & Drink. My fellow Cobaya co-conspirator, The Chowfather, had joined me and we were about three Sonny Rollins deep when we hatched a brilliant plan to hit up The Bazaar, Jose Andres' latest restaurant that had recently launched at the brand new SLS Hotel on Miami Beach.

Bazaar had opened surrounded by a ton of hype. The SLS was Miami's "shiny new object" and Andres the biggest culinary name to open shop here in some time. The menu listed tons of small plates to choose from and the prices what you would expect of this sort of restaurant - a bit higher than your average restaurant. As usual, the twitter and yelp crowd donned their armor, strapped on their helmets, and grabbed their swords ready to bash it down if their lofty expectations were not met on opening night. Many slammed the service and pricing of the meal on social media, which provoked a reaction by avid social media chef Jose Andres himself that perhaps McDonalds would be a better venue for them.

I had chose to wait, like I usually do, about a month or so for the restaurant to get into a rhythm before giving it a try. My experience was phenomenal and even included a chat with Chef Andres himself who happened to be in town when Chowfather and I made our visit that Sunday evening. I'm not going to go into detail about the meal I had that night or on the four nights in eight days that I dined there. Why? Simply because our other Cobaya co-conspirator, the venerable Mr. Frodnesor, has already typed up an insane recap of Bazaar and the meals he joined us on.

Instead , I'm here to tell you this: you can have an incredible meal at The Bazaar for $50 or less per person excluding tax/tip and alcohol. How can this be done without needing to hit the aforementioned McDs after to get full? With the help of Chowfather and Frodnesor, we've come up with some great options for ya. Keep in mind most of these scenarios are for parties of two. Take notes, kiddos...


My suggestions:

1.) "The Spaniard" - $48 total

Mediterranean mussels - $10
Escalivada w/ blue cheese - $10
Croquetas de pollo - $12
Black Rossejat - $16

This one starts light, adds body, and ends heavy with one of the best dishes (if not the best) on the menu. At $48 total for two, you could easily add a cocktail or wine and get out for under $50pp including tax/tip. Huge value here.

Kueh Pai Ti & Croquetas
2.) "Asia with a Friend" - $94 total

Traditional Siu Mai - $14
Kueh Pai Ti - $16
Japanese Taco - $10
Bao con Lechon - $18
Creamy Coconut Rice - $18
Baby Japanese Peaches - 18

This one gives bursts of flavor. Starting out with some dim sum is a good way to begin. The bao and rice are loaded with flavor and are filling and the Japanese peaches with Burrata make for a smooth landing with a light dessert quality.

Now a suggestion from Frodnesor:

3.) "The World Traveler" - $100 total

Kueh Pai Ti (Singapore) - $16
Pollo al Ajillo Cubano (Cuba) - $14
Conch Fritters (Bahamas) - $12
Papas a la Huancaina (Peru) - $24
Secreto de Iberico (Spain) - $22
Key Lime Pie (America) - $12

Frod takes us around the world, starting with some shareable bites before moving on to a knockout dish (Papas a la Huancaina) and another one of the biggest values on the menu (Secreto de Iberico which comes w/ iberico potato puree and pan con tomate). The deconstructed key lime pie is also a dish even local South Floridians can be impressed by.

And a couple of lineups from Chowfather:

4.) "Monday night football sandwiches" (pregame) - $47 total

Bao con lechon - $18
Frozen Blue Cheese Sandwich - $13
Corte de foie gras - $16

We're gettin' heavy with the sandwiches to pregame for MNF on this suggestion.  Just a simple gorge-fest courtesy of Chowfather to get you started before kickoff.  See Hillary at Bar Centro outside for an Old Fashioned, Manhattan, or Jose's Gin & Tonic to wash it all down properly.

Bagels & lox cone
5.) "Diverse Menu" - $50 total

Bagels and Lox - $7
Watermelon & Tomato Skewers - $9
Baby Japanese Peaches -$18
Black Rossejat - $16

Chowfather starts this suggestion with one of my favorite bites, the bagels & lox cone.  The lox in this case coming in the form of salmon roe.  This one stays light and packed with flavor before closing with the aforementioned rossejat.  I'm tellin ya, every time I type "rossejat" my mouth waters a little bit.

Finally, there's this suggestion...

6.) "The Chowfather" - $50 total

Jose's Taco - $50 (BOOM!)


Let's face it, with a menu that consists of about 60 items excluding the cured meats & cheeses section, dining at Bazaar can be a tad intimidating. These are just a few ways you can get in and out of Bazaar for under $50 a head. If you add the Rossejat or Secreto de Iberico to any lineup, you can score easily at Bazaar. In fact, a solo diner could opt for either of those dishes along with a beer or two and leave belly full and happy.

But seriously, why limit yourself?  I've found the best way to experience The Bazaar is as a party of three.  You can try lots more items that way and the bill divides three ways to soften the blow.  Some dishes that come as two pieces may require the "Hey look, it's David Bowie!" move where you snag a bite while the others foolishly look away from the table but, hey, when are you going to be able to use that move otherwise.

You've got the blueprints now, so if you'll excuse me, I've got a date with some rossejat!

New England Summah - The Lobstah Roll

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Fair warning: you're getting the accent for this entire post 

If you ask me, it really doesn't get better than summatime in New England.  For the past 11 years that I've lived in Miami, I've looked forwahd to my annual trip home in July when my family would rent a beach house on my favorite beach in the entire world, Long Beach in Rockport, Massachusetts.  Last year, my folks lucked out and found a place up fah sale that they were able to make their own.  It's a cozy cottage with plenty of bedroom space for visitahs and a screened in porch that has a bed for catchin' some Z's while listenin' to the waves crash on the shore.  Needless to say, the frequency of my trips home has increased.

I've written about our summah beach blast before and all the family and friends that come to enjoy the treasures from the seas that grace our dining table - oystahs, clams, steamahs, and my favorite, lobstahs!  This year, the lobstahs were fantastic.  On my trip last weekend, I declared the 2-pound lobstah I ate on our porch the best I've evah had.  It had it all - briny, succulent, meat that needed no dip in butter whatsoevah.  It was loaded with flava!

The best thing about getting lobstah for a group is that there is almost always leftovahs.  And you know what leftovah lobstah means???  Lobstah rolls!!!  Much like how I am with makin' an Old Fashioned, I'm very particulah about my lobstah rolls.  Here's where I'll share with you how to get 'er done!!


1.) The Roll

New England split top hot dog rolls are where it's at when making a lobstah roll
When it comes to a lobstah roll, the bun is key.  After all, it's the vessel that will be carryin' this big bite of awesome intah your mouth.  As important as capacity is, flavorin' is equally important.  That's why the only way to go is with a New England style split top hot dog roll as shown above.  The sides are flat and perfect for gettin' 'em buttahd up and toasted on a flat top1 so all that buttery flava gets baked on in.

Buttahd & toasted is the play
2.) The Lobstah Mix

Ok, so you're gonna need some lobstah to make this magic happen.  Boil or steam2 up a lobstah or two, let cool, then shell those bad boys for everything they've got - claws, knuckles, tail, legs, fins have all got good meat in them although the legs and fins are probably bettah for consumption while you shell the rest of the meat.  Reward yourself for your hahd work!  Lobstah rolls are best when you use as much claw and knuckle meat as possible3.  This meat is much more tendah and flavaful than the tail. My favorite paht is tip of the claw which adds a dry, rich flava.  Since we don't want to advocate wasting perfectly awesome lobstah, toss in some tail meat too.  I advise breakin' it down into bite sized nuggets to make it easiah to bite into and chew.  You can do this easily by hand by pullin' apaht the tail down the middle (which will allow you to toss out the intestinal tract that's usually filled with poo), then pullin' off each little nugget of meat formed by the shell. 

Go easy with the mayo!
A key thing to remember when makin' a lobstah roll is this: you're makin' this because you want to eat LOBSTAH!!  Sounds pretty obvious but I can't tell you how many times people forget this and the proof is in their lobstah mix.  Most often, the main offense is a heavy hand with the mayo.  The mayo here is mainly a light flavaring agent and bindah for the mix.  The flava of lobstah is delecate and the mayo need only to coat the lobstah ever so slightly.  Don't go crazy, a little goes a long way!  As you'll see in the picksha below, I used a tiny bit on a knife when I made this mix for three lobstah rolls.  If you ahn't confident in your mayo distribution skills, there is an easy way out...  Instead of addin' mayo to the mix, you can put a thin coating on the inside of the roll.

A little goes a long way!!
While I prefer not to add it, many people like tossin' some diced celery into the mix.  If you're gonna go this route, make sure to dice as finely as possible so that the celery adds a little crunch but not an overpowerin' flava.  Half moons of celery are a huge foul!!  Some people also add lettuce leaves which I strongly disagree with.  Lettuce leaves in a lobstah roll are like tuckin' the tablecloth intah your pants.  When you bite intah the roll, the lettuce usually isn't bitten through all the way and as you pull away to chew the lettuce pulls the rest of the lobstah out of the roll and into your lap.  Dumb idea.

3.) The Assembly

The Main Event!
It's showtime!  Grab a toasted bun and load it up with your lobstah mix.  I like to load tail and knuckle meat in as a base and save the hunks of claw meat for the top of the roll.  Once loaded, I hit the spice rack and add a little bit of seasonin'.  First I make a pass over the roll and hit it with some dill then I follow that with a very light dustin' of paprikah.  I find the dill adds to the fresh flava of the lobstah and the paprikah gives it a tiny kick while letting the lobstah flava continue to shine.  Now set that bad boy on a plate, gahnish with some crispy potato chips and maybe a slice of pickle or two and getcha grub on!!

Nothin' says summa like a lobstah roll and greasy chips







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1 You can also toast on a grill. You'll add a chah flava but you'll lose a little of the buttery-ness.  I also find it dries out the bun a little too much.

2 Or maybe you lull your lobstah to sleep first?

3 I'm going to staht this off with an apology to my Florida readers. I'm sorry to tell you that when it comes to a lobstah roll, Florida spiny lobstah simple does not produce anywhere near as good a product as New England lobstah!! Spiny lobstahs don't have claws, just tails.  So do yourself a favah and do this the right way with a New England lobstah, ok?

New England Summah - Steamahs

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Steamahs
Last week, we went over how to make a propah lobstah roll.  A good New England summah pahty always needs some appetizahs though, so this week we're gonna talk about anotha of my favorites - steamahs!!

Steamahs, or steamed clams, are usually what we eat down the beach before the lobstahs come around.  A "steamah" is a soft shell clam that lies buried in the mud of tidal mudflats.  Like other bivalves, they have a long neck that makes its way above the mud to suck in seawater which is filtered for food and then spit back out.  Some people actually call these "piss clams" because sometimes when they are hahvested from the mud they spit out the water they are holding, resembling someone takin' a piss.  They are also known as longneck clams.

This year, Dad decided we were gonna old school and fatten our clams up with cornmeal.  I was excited because the last time I can remembah doing this was when I was about 7 years old.  The process is pretty simple - fill a bucket with seawater, dump in your clams, and add cornmeal.  Why do this?  Well, it helps to get ya a less mucky more flavaful clam, that's why.  What happens is the clams will do their regular eatin' routine, suckin' in the cornmeal seawater and spittin' out the refuse water.  This fills their bellies nicely and adds some sweetness from the cornmeal to the flava of the clam.

A bucket of ocean
Add in ya clams
Now add in ya cornmeal
It really doesn't mattah how much cornmeal ya add as long as you don't add too little.  Clams live in the mud so if ya put too much in you're not gonna bury them to death.  You're basically giving them a huge buffet!  So, my advice is to err on the heavy side.  Use a half can to a whole can.  Dad and I went with about 3/4 on this batch which was more than enough and left a few clams buried at the bottom.  Fill a bag with some ice and toss it in to keep the water cold.  You can use a towel to insulate and get more life outta ya ice too.

Clams like some privacy when they're gettin' their gorge on
You will wanna give the clams some time to get their grub on so hit the beach for a few beers and some bocce.  Just keep in mind that the loser in bocce has to pick up the balls when you're done!

Dad playin' pickup!  A rare sight!!
Murky water is a good thing, it means bellies are gettin' fat!
As ya can see, the water is a lot more murky than it was when we stahted.  That's the clams doing their thing.  From what I've seen, they love the cornmeal.  Just look at how happy they look!

Necks out, bellies full
Consider it a nice final meal on death row for 'em because after ya strain out the water and leftovah cornmeal, into the pot they go!!

The steam pot
Take whatevah type of steam pot ya can get your hands on.  This one is one that we've used since I was a kid that goes right on the stove.  We've also used one of those outdoor steam pots that sits on a rack ovah a burnah.  The lowah pot is filled with water and the upper pot is basically a strainah that allows the steam from below to cook the clams.  Now, some knuckleheads will add potatoes, lemon, herbs, and other crap like that.  That's nonsense.  It takes too much time and, much like eatin' lobstah, you're gonna wanna get the flava of the clam!

Clams gettin' steamy!
You'll want to let the steamahs go for a bit until you take a peek in and see lots of open shells.  Stay away from closed shells as they likely ahn't cooked through.  Remembah to save the water from the steamah pot as you'll wanna dunk your steamah in there aftah you've removed it from the shell and peeled off the exteriah neck lining.  From there either pound it down or dunk it in a little drawn buttah and then send it down the hatch!

Salty, sweet, delicious
So, there ya have it.  Now you've got two major ingredients to a propah New England Summah seafood pahty.  Aftah that it's simple stuff like fresh shucked oystahs, corn on the cob, pahdaydah salad, and maybe a gahden salad if you like that healthy stuff.  Of course you'll also want some beers to wash it all down.  Or maybe some champagne?  Or maybe The Champagne of Beers?

Livin' the High Life!
There's not much time left so make sure to enjoy the rest of the summah!