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| Pappy Van Winkle - Picture from Buffalo Trace |
Out of the blue, a friend sent me an article about Pappy Van Winkle. He said it was tops on his wishlist. Then I read an article about Allen Benton, the maker of the world's finest smoked bacon and hams. He says Pappy is one of his favorite things, so I started looking around for it with no avail at the local DC liquor stores. Although I could never track any down, this bourbon always lingered in the back of my head until I got to Jack Rose Dining Saloon in Washington, DC. I asked the bartender about Pappy. They happened to have only one bottle left. It was the 10 year Old Rip Van Winkle (107 proof). We shared a couple of glasses between the two couples, and I was obsessed from the first sip. "Once it hits your lips, it's so good!" Old School (2003)
It starts with a rich crisp burn, which quickly settles dramatically upon which the caramel, cinnamon, oak, vanilla, floral, and leather notes come through. The sip then slowly evolves as it warms you up on the inside. It toys with your taste buds in the finish, leaving you wanting more. With the recent allocation to local Bourbon bars in DC, I have since had the opportunity to enjoy the 12 year Special Reserve, Pappy 15 year, and Pappy 20 year, and with every sip I've grown even more fond of this fine nectar. I prefer (along with many other people) the Pappy 15 Year without a doubt. I crave this stuff, the only problem is that it's almost impossible to find.
Made only in limited supplies, it turned out that production of this bourbon 20+ years back, far underestimated the popularity of bourbon in general today which is currently experiencing a revival. As a result, Pappy is often sold as soon as it hits the store, many times never making it to the shelves and in some stores being sold in the first few minutes that it is made available. Pappy has become so prized that many merchants hold it secretly behind the counter for only the best and most loyal customers...which even then stills usually sells out in a matter or days. As a result, getting a bottle has become a sport in itself, called Pappy Hunting. Many Pappyphiles pride themselves on hoarding as much of the product as possible and flaunt their collections on social media like Twitter and Facebook. I've included a few tips below on how you can go about getting some for yourself, but more about whiskey, specifically this wheated whiskey, before we go there.
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| Old Rip Van Winkle 10 year 107 proof |
By federal law, bourbon must be at least 51% corn and be made in the U.S. Contrary to popular belief, the spirits do not need to be made in Bourbon County, Ky. to be called bourbon. In fact, Van Winkle, based in Louisville, outsources the making and bottling of his family recipe to the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, Ky., which is not in Bourbon County. Most bourbons use 70% to 80% corn and a mixture of rye, malted barley, and yeast.
Pappy's secret recipe substitutes wheat for rye. Says Van Winkle: "Think of the taste as the difference between rye bread and wheat bread. A bourbon made with rye is kind of spicy, has a bit of a bite in it, and is a little rougher on your tongue. Wheat is sweeter, softer, smoother." There's more. Pappy's wheat recipe ages very gracefully in oak barrels, not picking up as much, as they call it in the trade, "wood and char," which can give it too much of an oaky and burned taste.
One reason that aged bourbon is expensive is that it disappears over time. Each barrel yields fewer cases of bourbon each year it ages due primarily to evaporation.
- CNN Money: Creating the ultimate cult brand
History of Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery:
The Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery has a four generation
history. The Van Winkle family’s
involvement in the bourbon industry began in the late 1800s with Julian P.
“Pappy” Van Winkle, Sr. He was a traveling salesman for the W.L. Weller and
Sons wholesale house in Louisville. Pappy and a friend, Alex Farnsley,
eventually bought the wholesale house and also partnered with Mr. A. Ph.
Stitzel on the purchase of Mr. Sitzel’s distillery. The three of them merged
the two companies and became the Stitzel-Weller Distillery. In May of 1935 at the age of 61, Pappy opened the newly completed Stitzel-Weller Distillery in South Louisville. Its prominent brands were W.L. Weller, Old Fitzgerald, Rebel Yell, and Cabin Still. Pappy had a heavy influence on the operations there until his death at the age of 91. His son, Julian, Jr. took over operations until he was forced by stockholders to sell the distillery in 1972. The rights to all of their brands were sold to Norton Simon, Inc. Later, United Distillers, who eventually ended up with the Stitzel-Weller Distillery, sold off all of the original labels around 1999.
After selling the distillery, Julian Jr. resurrected a pre-prohibition label, the only one to which the Van Winkles kept the rights, called Old Rip Van Winkle. He used whiskey stocks from the old distillery to supply his brand. Julian Jr.’s son, Julian, III took over in 1981 when Julian, Jr. passed away. Julian III has continued with the Van Winkle tradition of producing high-quality wheated bourbon. His son, Preston, joined the company in 2001 and the Van Winkles look to continue that tradition for generations to come. - Buffalo Trace Press Release
In 1991, Stitzel-Weller ceased operations and sold off all brands of his whiskey except his brand of Van Winkle Whiskeys. Given dwindling stocks of the Van Winkle line, Julian Van Winkle III in 2002 decided to enter into a partnership with Buffalo Trace to begin producing their whiskey. This was in preparation for all of the older Pappy Van Winkle stock from Stitzel-Weller running out.
Much has been debated about the origin of the Pappy line of Bourbons - Are they produced by Buffalo Trace or Stitzel-Weller distillery? What we do know is that Old Rip Van Winkle 10 and 12 year products are all Buffalo Trace. We also can be confident that the 20 year and 23 year old Pappy Van Winkle Bourbons are still all Stitzel-Weller stock. Sources in the know have been mysterious about the origin of the 15 year, saying that it may be a mix of stock between Buffalo Trace and Stitzel-Weller. More recently Preston Van Winkle in a podcast from David Driscoll of K&L Wine and Spirits admitted that 2011 Pappy 15 is 100% Buffalo Trace whiskey. - Sour Mash Manifesto
Products:
Old Rip Van Winkle 10 year 90 proof $35-$55
Prices reflect a range taken from multiple stores, websites and reviews.
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| Almost the full Old Rip Van Winkle line...just missing the Reserve Rye 13 year. |
The list of awards is impressive. If you have your choice of the lot, get the 15 year old Pappy Van Winkle and/or the 12 year old Van Winkle Special Reserve. The 13 year Rye is great, but it is the hardest to find because it was sourced from a dwindling supply of rye whiskey from the Charles Medley Distillery which closed its doors in 2002. This whiskey happens to be quite the antithesis of the other bourbons in the Van winkle lineup in that it is made with at least majority rye in its recipe. Most believe that this rye is a lot older than its bottle age of 13 years...some say up to 18-19 years old. The 20 and 23 year old Pappy are of course phenomenal, but expensive, and more considered to be after-dinner elixirs. Plus, the consensus among bourbon experts is that they don't compare to the 15. If you get the opportunity to go to a well stocked bourbon bar that has all of them, do your own taste test. Each vintage has its own unique character, so pick which one suits you best.
Allocation: Currently, there are two allocations of this fine bourbon yearly. One in November/December and a smaller one in March/April.
How to get it:
1. Know where to look for the product: The website provides a list of retailers where you can buy the product, and these are the first places to try. But there are many other stores that sell it too. Your best chances are at well stocked liquor stores off the beaten path or in remote cities. People tend to less obsessed about stockpiling Pappy in these locales.
2. Call multiple (5-10) of your local liquor stores and get on the every Pappy waiting list that you can. Be nice to your local merchant, and it helps if you are a loyal customer. Some stores keep meticulous lists down to the vintage that you are most interested in. This is how most customers get their supply. In fact, most stores, as mentioned above, don't even bother to put this bourbon on display. They sell the stuff too fast to hold shelf space, or they reserve it for their best customers. I asked one merchant and he told me that they keep their Pappy behind the counter. When I asked why, he said he prefers to sell it to customers who realize how special it is.
3. Social Media - Follow your local Liquor Store: Twitter, Facebook, Newsletter, whatever it takes. Some equal opportunity liquor stores will announce the arrival of specials like Pappy and other rare finds. If they do make an announcement, drop what you're doing and hustle over there. It won't be there for long.
4. Some organizations, particularly certain State ABC's, will allow you to place a special order. Most will allow you to order a bottle or two. However, some, like North Carolina, require a whole case order. You may need to go in with several others or, hell, just get the whole case and share it! Your friends will love you!
5. Cross your fingers. There is also the very slight possibility that you may be lucky enough to walk into a store any given day and happen upon a bottle of Pappy. You may also want to play the lottery that day.
6. Know what you want. Be familiar with the price points, and don't overpay unless you have the means and desire to do so. In my experience, the fairest prices are at State ABC's. Be prepared for many independent or corporate liquor stores that try to take advantage of the demand for and rarity of Pappy and accordingly jack up the price on the few bottles they have. As last resort, you can buy bottles on e-Bay, but the prices are often double or even triple retail price. Right now, Pappy Van Winkle 15 is selling for about $175.
Unfortunately some State ABC's, like Ohio, do not sell Pappy. The distillery mentions that the Ohio's State ABC is particularly difficult to deal with as a small producer.
Also, don't try contacting the distillery directly. Federal law prohibits direct sale of distilled spirits. This is very different from laws regarding wine.
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| 20 year Pappy Van Winkle - Damn fine juice! |
Ingredients:
- 4 ounces Pappy Van Winkle’s Family - Reserve fifteen-year-old bourbon
- 3 dashes orange bitters (Van Winkle uses Regan’s Orange Bitters)
- 1 cocktail napkin
- 1 cube raw sugar
- 1 half-inch-thick half-moon of ripe orange, with rind
Directions: Put a paper napkin across the top of a cocktail glass and set the sugar cube on top of it. Hit the cube with three dashes of orange bitters and let it soak in, allowing the napkin to absorb the excess. Drop the cube in the glass and discard the napkin. Add the orange slice and use a bar spoon to muddle the flesh - not the rind and pith - into the bitters-soaked sugar cube. Take your time. When the sugar and the flesh of the orange are one with each other, add ice and 4 ounces of bourbon. Stir and serve.
- Cocktails DC
You should notice that this recipe doesn't dilute the bourbon much. I would be hesitant to make a more traditional cocktail that further dilutes given the quality and rarity of this bourbon. However Van Winkle says it's okay, even good, to dilute it a little:"(People) treat bourbon like this virgin substance that you don’t want to mess with. That’s a mistake. When you dilute the whiskey just a bit - not too much - you open the door to hundreds of new flavors. Even a few drops of water can totally open a whiskey up. It will hide some of the alcohol and bring out the flavors of the grain and the oak barrels." "By any means necessary."
- Jean-Paul Charles Aymard Sartre
- Popularized by Malcolm X "Buy any Pappy necessary." (If you see it, buy it) - bkarmstrong
For more info, go to Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery
Address:
113 Great Buffalo Trace
Franklin County,
Frankfort, Kentucky 40601
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